Fashion Notebook

What the 2008 CFDA Nominations Tell Us About American Fashion

Another spring, another awards season for the Council of Fashion Designers of America. We always look forward to this announcement, and yet we always walk away from the press release disappointed. Why? Well, because year after year, it all just feels the same and it's gotten to the point where we feel we could pick out the nominees, blindfolded and drunk, and probably get them right about 90% of the time. But first, the nominees.

In case you haven't heard, the group, whose prez is none other than that lullaby-talking Diane Von Furstenberg, has announced the following nominations for 2008: [Note: The Swarovski awards recognize emerging design talent.]

Womenswear Designer of the Year                                   Swarovski Award for Womenswear
Francisco Costa (Calvin Klein)                                            Kate & Laura Mulleavy (Rodarte)
Lazaro Hernandez & Jack McCollough (Proenza Schouler)     Thakoon Panichgul (Thakoon)
Marc Jacobs                                                                      Alexander Wang

Menswear Designer of the Year                                        Swarovski Award for Menswear
Thom Browne                                                                   Patrik Ervell
Michael Bastian                                                                Tim Hamilton
Tom Ford                                                                         Scott Sternberg (Band of Outsiders)

Accessory Designer of the Year                                        Swarovski Award for Accessory Design   Tory Burch                                                                       Philip Crangi
Marc Jacobs                                                                      Justin Giunta (Subversive Jewelry)
Michael Kors                                                                     Joy Gryson

Well, congratulations to all the winners. Then again, we're sure they've heard it all before. Actually, they have. Let's take a quick, two-year trip down memory lane, just with the marquee awards.

CFDA Nominees 2007                                                     CFDA Nominees 2006     

Womenswear:                                                                  Womenswear:
Oscar de  la Renta                                                            Francisco Costa (Calvin Klein)
L. Hernandez and J. McCollough (Proenza Schouler)            L. Hernandez and J. McCollough (PS)
Marc Jacobs                                                                     Marc Jacobs

Menswear:                                                                       Menswear:
Steven Cox and Daniel Silver (Duckie Brown)                      Thom Browne
Ralph Lauren                                                                    Ralph Lauren
Italo Zucchelli (Calvin Klein)                                              Alexandre Plokhov (Cloak)

Accessory Designer of the Year:                                          Accessory Designer of the Year:
Marc Jacobs                                                                      Marc Jacobs    
Michael Kors                                                                     Michael Kors
Derek Lam                                                                        Tom Binns

Notice anything? Like maybe the fact that the nominees in the
womenswear category have remained virtually unchanged (with the
exception of Oscar de la Renta) for the past three years? Or that Michael Kors (pictured, right, doing his Project Runway duties) and Marc Jacobs have been the accessory designer of the year nominees for three years running, as well? The only thing that seems to have changed much at all is the men's category.

In his statement regarding this year's nominees, CFDA executive director Steven Kolb lauds the way in which "this year's nominees and honorees reflect the strength and vitality of the American fashion industry."

Really? It seems to us that it suggests the industry is rather stagnant, with only the same three names worthy of distinction in each of the categories. And let's not forget that chief among those names, Mr. Marc Jacobs, seemed poised, only a season ago, to take his whole operation to Paris. But we digress.

In essence, it would seem that the CFDA nominations this year, and as we've demonstrated above, the past several years, prove that American fashion is a pretty rarified echelon in which only a standard round of top names compete for industry prizes. For an industry where the bread and butter is creativity, the stagnancy (why does that word keep coming to us?) of the nominations list seems to imply a less thoughtful approach. That said, if asked which designers we thought were tops in American design, we'd be hard pressed to come up with a different list. Perhaps the fault then, dear readers, is not within the CFDA nominating committee but within our American fashion selves.

It's hard for American designers—hell, for ANY designers—to become established like these award winners anymore, given the difficulties of getting funding and the fact that we live in a world that no longer seems to care about the development of talent as much as they do about constantly having something new, something chic, and something with a name that others will recognize. To that end, CFDA (and Vogue) are to be commended for their work to bring notoriety to new design labels, as they have with Proenza Schouler, who now top the ranks of their regular awards, having graduated from the Swarovski Award for Womenswear. But it's hard to see any kind of sea change in American fashion coming—and perhaps no one wants it—given that these guys are always at the top of the list for women's design.

Here's hoping that maybe Christian Siriano, recent Project Runway winner (whom we can't help ourselves but to shill for), will liven up those ranks in the coming years.

And full disclaimer: This post is not a statement, by Fashion Notebook, that we think any of the nominated designers aren't talented, or are not worthy of awards. Rather, it is a statement that we've seen these same people getting awards and nominations for years, and we're wondering why there's no one else in the American fashion ring worthy of such distinction by the CFDA.

Oscar Wrap-Up: Why Marketing Was the Night's Most Interesting Star

So if last night's ceremony, presenter banter, and Jon Stewart had us yawning in our
seats, at least the marketing plugs were there to wake us up! In fact, we might go so
far as to say that marketing was the real star of the show.

Things kicked off with some good designer plugs in the women's dress category. Headline news: Cotillard up, Kidman down. For a more comprehensive breakdown, check out our previous Oscar post, here. (Or, er, scroll below!)

But we left one of those ladies out of the line-up, because she was just such a good piece of marketing collateral that we thought her more appropriate for this part of the wrap-up. Drum roll please: Heidi Klum in that gorgeous red dress by John Galliano, a philanthropic tie-in for Coca-Cola, which ran its Red Dress campaign spots during the event. The dress (pictured, with Klum, below) will be auctioned off on MyCokeRewards.com, with proceeds going to the charity Heart Truth, which raises awareness about heart disease in women.

Then there were the commercials, and I have to say that the fashion set more than represented. The new J.C. Penney ads for the "American Living" collection seemed to translate well (at least, among our viewing audience last night in a cramped Brooklyn apartment), and everyone seemed pleasantly surprised by the American Express ads with Diane von Furstenberg. Both ads got some prominent sponsorship play before the commercial break had even commenced.

So for the fashion marketers, it seemed like the night sailed on smoothly, unlike Cameron Diaz's attempt to pronounce such difficult words as "cinematography" (again, we still don't understand why she gets Galliano's Dior dresses!).

And then there were these weird product plugs.

Here's Jon Stewart bemusedly futzing with his iPhone. If ever there were a completely smooth pitchman, Stewart's not one of 'em. In a lame segue, he talked about getting to catch up on all of the year's great films right there at the podium. (Because, you know, the square inches of the iPhone really help to communicate the Old West grandeur of "There Will Be Blood." Seriously, has Stewart even used this device?). Then of course, he announces that they're better viewed in widescreen. He turns the phone horizontally and the camera pans in for a great shot of the iPhone and Apple logo. In the end, it's not a bad plug, it's just, well, kinda shameless and we're sure that even those who aren't marketers recognized this little bit for the sham it is. Kind of like the Bluefly.com "Accessories Wall" in Project Runway or the numerous mentions Coke gets during American Idol.

And then there was this COMPLETELY SHAMELESS PLUG for the Nintendo Wii. Coming back from commercial, Stewart and the little girl from that Gospel choir, were engaged in a heated game of Wii Tennis, projected on enormous screens for the whole audience to see. No joke followed, no setup really introduced the plug. It was suddenly just there.  Check out the video below.

Do marketers seriously think the American public is this stupid that they wouldn't know a complete corporate shill when they see it? Why not give away sponsorship titles for the awards at this point? And the Oscar for the Coca-Cola Best Actress goes to... Marion Cotillard! Just think of it! She could thank Diet Coke, of course, for all of those days on set when she needed a fizzy drink that calmed her stomach but didn't contribute to any stress-induced weight gain. Well, that's if San Pelligrino doesn't get the award sponsorship first.

Now that we're mulling it, is this a bad idea? Everyone knows these shows are rigged shams anyways, I don't care how many staged videos I have to see of Frank Pierson being denied at the doors of Price Waterhouse Cooper.

AmEx Continues Its Fashion Push, With Diane von Furstenberg Starring in New Campaign

Off the heels of the New York Fashion Week initiative
where it offered streaming runway shows among other goodies, and a $500,000 donation to the CFDA/Vogue
Fashion Fund, American Express is continuing to deepen its fashion industry connection.

The credit card company announced that designer Diane von Furstenberg (she old the large dots and wrap dresses) will star in the latest "Are You a Cardmember" campaign, per Ogilvy & Mather, New York, which breaks during the Oscars on Feb. 24. See a still from the TV spot, right.

No doubt the campaign seeks to create more brand affinity among female consumers (also the general goal of the company's effort within the fashion industry, according to Jessica Igoe, director of sponsorship and event marketing at American Express, New York), and given von Furstenberg's longevity in the industry and reputation as a fiercely independent designer and businesswoman, it should resonate fairly well.

Indeed, von Furstenberg's own statement seems to play right into that angle.

"Women inspire me and I inspire them to be independent and free, which is how I feel when I use my American Express card," said Von Furstenberg. "American Express represents a sign of independence and freedom and if you have your card, you can do anything."

See what we mean? Though we must admit, that the feeling of freedom that our credit cards (of all stripes) have given us only resulted in vast numbers of consumers in our age group (let's say 20-30 years old) entering into not-insignificant personal debt. After all, we just had to have that Vuitton throw rug and somewhere along the way, trips to Sephora seemed, well, like a necessity no matter how much they squeezed the budget.

Directed by "Capote" chief Bennett Miller, the TV spot follows Von Furstenberg from the inspirational Winter Wonderland of her backyard, through the design process in her studio. The print ads were shot by—who else?—Annie Leibovitz.